Complete guide to treating dry facial skin

Treat dry facial skin effectively with our skin care guide.
Discover best moisturising practices, recommended products and expert advice.

Introduction to dry facial skin¹ ²

The skin on the face, finer and more delicate than the rest of the body, is particularly vulnerable to cutaneous dryness. This fragility is due to more frequent exposure to environmental factors and external aggressions: wind, UV rays, pollution and temperature variations.

What's more, our daily habits accentuate this trend. Frequent cleansing of the face removes protective natural oils, upsetting the hydrolipidic balance and weakening the skin barrier.

Adopting the proper facial care routine focusing on hydration and protection is essential to maintain healthy, comfortable skin. This approach helps to prevent dryness, restore skin balance and combat premature skin ageing.

Specific causes of dry skin on the face¹ ²

Facteurs internes, génétiques et hormonaux

Many internal factors can predispose to skin dryness. Genetics play a fundamental role in the structure of the skin barrier and water retention capacity, which vary from one individual to another. Similarly, hormonal fluctuations linked to puberty, pregnancy and menopause affect sebum production, altering the skin's moisture balance. Finally, with age and skin ageing, the activity of the sebaceous and sweat glands diminishes, increasing the tendency for skin dryness.

Environmental factors

External environmental factors play a significant role in the appearance of skin dryness:

• Climate: Winter conditions and high temperatures reduce humidity, drying the 
• skin. Heating and air conditioning: These systems reduce the humidity in the air, contributing to dry skin on the face.
• Excessive hygiene: Frequent showers and baths damage the lipid barrier, particularly in hot water and for long periods.
• Bathing and swimming: Similarly, prolonged bathing, particularly in chlorinated water, dries out the skin.
• Harsh facial care products: Some soaps, detergents and facial skin care products remove essential lipids from the skin.
• Sun exposure: UV rays break down collagen and elastin, accelerating skin ageing.
• Medication: Certain treatments, such as retinoids, topical corticosteroids and diuretics, can induce skin dryness.

Targeted Solutions for Dry Skin on the Face

Specific moisturisers, nourishing creams and oils¹ ²

To restore the skin's moisture balance, dermatologists recommend using specific moisturising products combining hydrophilic and lipophilic ingredients. Hydrophilic components, such as glycerol and urea, attract and retain water in the stratum corneum. Lipophilic components like vaseline, silicones and ceramides form a protective barrier that reduces trans-epidermal water loss.

The choice of specific moisturiser for the face should be made according to skin type and particular needs. Generally speaking, the drier the skin on the face, the more you should choose lipid-rich, nourishing creams that provide intense, long-lasting hydration.

In the event of redness or itching, soothing or antipruritic ingredients can be added to the formulations. 

Mild cleaning products^{1 3 4}

To preserve the skin barrier, it is essential to choose suitable cleansing products. Dermatologists recommend gentle cleansers that protect the lipids and proteins of the stratum corneum while depositing moisturising substances on the epidermis. These facial cleansing products generally contain the following:

- Cleansing agents with a pH close to that of the skin.
- Humectants such as glycerine or urea retain water in the skin.
- Lipophilic ingredients such as Vaseline reinforce the lipid barrier.

The product choice will, therefore, depend on the type of skin and its specific hydration needs. Very dry skin will benefit more from cleansing oils or creams, which are richer in lipophilic compounds.

Skincare routine for dry facial skin¹ ⁵

To effectively moisturise dry facial skin, follow these hydration and dermatological tips:

• Establish a daily skincare routine, morning and night. 
• Gentle cleansing: In the morning and evening, use a gentle cleanser to remove impurities without drying the skin.
• Moisturising: After gently drying your skin, apply a moisturising cream. For very dry skin, use a moisturising serum before applying the cream.
• Sun protection: In the morning, after moisturising the skin on your face, use a broad-spectrum sun cream (SPF 30 minimum) to prevent UV damage.
• While nourishing the skin is essential, you should avoid comedogenic products in your facial care routine

Prevent dry face

Protection against external aggression⁵

Protecting yourself against external aggression is essential to prevent facial dryness.

• Limit showers and baths to a maximum of 5 minutes and use lukewarm rather than hot water.
• Opt for gentle, soap-free cleansers with a pH close to the skin's.
• Avoid facial care products containing perfumes, alcohols, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or retinoids, and opt for hypoallergenic products. Unless advised by a dermatologist, avoid scrubs and exfoliating products as they dry out the skin.
• If possible, stay away from direct heat sources such as fireplaces in winter and avoid intensive use of air conditioners in summer. Using a humidifier in your home also helps prevent skin dryness.
• Avoid the sun and tanning booths, which emit UV rays that cause skin damage. Protect the skin on your face from the sun by staying in the shade, wearing a hat, ideally with a wide brim, and applying appropriate sun protection (SPF 30 or higher).

Advice on internal hydration^{6 7}

Internal hydration is also essential to prevent dryness on your face; drink at least 2 litres of water daily and eat a balanced diet rich in omega-3s and antioxidants. Probiotics and prebiotics can promote a healthy intestinal microbiome, which helps to improve the skin barrier. Finally, dermatologists advise limiting the consumption of potentially irritating foods such as spices, citrus fruits and alcohol.

References   

1. Augustin M and al. Diagnosis and treatment of xerosis cutis - a position paper. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2019 Nov;17 Suppl 7:3-33.
2. Gade A, Matin T, Rubenstein R. Xeroderma. 2023 Oct 29. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2024 Jan–.
3. Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: Cleansers. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Feb;17(1):8-14. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12469. Epub 2017 Dec 12. PMID: 29231284.
4. Mukhopadhyay P. Cleansers and their role in various dermatological disorders. Indian J Dermatol. 2011 Jan;56(1):2-6.
5. AAD. Dry skin: tips for managing. American Academy of Dermatology Association. 202 Jun 18. [Internet]. Available on: https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/a-z/dry-skin-self-care
6. Palma L and al. Dietary water affects human skin hydration and biomechanics. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015 Aug 3;8:413-21.
7. Parke MA and al. Diet and Skin Barrier: The Role of Dietary Interventions on Skin Barrier Function. Dermatol Pract Concept. 2021 Jan 29;11(1):e2021132.