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DEXERYL supports you and take care of your dry skin each day
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DEXERYL supports you and take care of your dry skin each day
Discover how to choose the ideal soap for dry skin, reduce tightness and
moisturise your skin. Tips on pH and post-wash moisturising.
Summary
Keeping skin clean, whether dry or not, is essential to preserving its barrier function and protecting it from external aggression. Cleansing aims to remove surface impurities without compromising the integrity of the stratum corneum, removing its protective proteins and lipids, affecting the skin's microbiota or altering its pH.
Water alone is insufficient for effective cleansing because sebum, impurities and contaminants on the skin's surface are not soluble in water. This is why the use of surfactants is necessary. These substances, like soap, can break down and emulsify most impurities into finer particles, allowing them to be detached from the skin's surface and eliminated when rinsing.
Soap, the oldest of the surfactants, originated in the Babylonian and Sumerian civilisations between 3000 and 2000 BC. It is made by saponification, which involves transforming animal fats (such as tallow) or vegetable oils (such as olive oil) by combining them with an alkaline base like sodium hydroxide, commonly known as caustic soda.
Despite its effectiveness as a cleanser, soap has several drawbacks for skin health, particularly in dry skin. Its alkaline nature and detergent properties lead to increased trans-epidermal water loss and excessive elimination of the natural moisturising factor, leading to skin dryness.
This dehydration alters the skin barrier, making it sensitive to external aggression. As a result, the skin becomes dry, red and tight.
The pH of soap is generally between 9 and 11, in stark contrast to the slightly acidic pH of the skin, which is between 4.5 and 5.5. This pronounced alkalinity in soap causes skin proteins to swell and lipids to break down.
Soaps remove all the fatty compounds from the skin's surface, including impurities, sebum and the essential components (ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids) of the lipid matrix that maintain the integrity of the skin barrier.
The high pH of soap can also cause changes to skin proteins, particularly keratins, which play a vital role in the skin's structure.
For people with dry skin, certain types of soap which can increase dryness and skin sensitivity should be avoided:
Superfatted soaps are 'traditional' soaps produced by a saponification process with a basic pH. However, more lipids, such as shea butter, lanolin, or paraffin, are added to form a protective lipid film on the skin.
Syndets are synthetic surfactants that, unlike soaps, are not manufactured by saponification. These "soap-free" soaps have a neutral or slightly acidic pH close to that of the skin. Therefore, they are less irritating and do not form deposits, which helps preserve the lipid and protein components of the stratum corneum.
Moisturising shower products cleanse the skin while depositing a moisturising substance on its surface. Their composition is based on several key elements:
The main difference between these products lies in the proportion of their water and lipid compounds. They can be classified from the most lipid-rich to the least:
Therefore, choosing the optimal product will depend on your skin type and specific hydration needs. Very dry or atopic skin benefits more from shower oils or creams, while people with normal to combination skin may use milks or gels.
When washing, close your bathroom door to keep in the moisture and use a gentle cleanser, ideally without soap or perfume, such as a moisturising shower oil, to avoid any further skin dehydration. Limit baths and showers to five minutes once a day and use lukewarm rather than hot water, as hot water can further dehydrate the skin. Apply cleanser only to necessary areas, such as underarms or groins. After bathing or showering, pat your skin dry gently with a towel and apply a moisturiser within five minutes to help retain moisture.
Moisturisation is key in caring for dry skin; apply a moisturiser once or twice a day, particularly within 5 minutes of showering or bathing.
Choose formulas that combine lipophilic and hydrophilic ingredients. Lipophilic ingredients such as oils (sweet almond, linseed, etc.) and butters (shea, cocoa, etc.) help replenish missing lipids and form a protective lipid film on the skin. Hydrophilic ingredients such as glycerol or urea act as humectants, drawing water into the epidermis.
In winter, opt for gentle products such as ointments or nourishing creams, which are rich in lipids and more effective at retaining moisture in the skin. Look for glycerol, ceramides, petroleum jelly or shea butter.
Dexeryl Cleansing Oil is ideal for dry, sensitive skin. As a soap-free, fragrance-free shower oil with a physiological pH, it gently cleanses your skin while preserving the hydrolipidic film. Its lipid-rich formula nourishes dry skin, reducing tightness while protecting against external aggressors.
References
1. Mijaljica D and al. Skin Cleansing without or with Compromise: Soaps and Syndets. Molecules. 2022 Mar 21;27(6):2010.
2. Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: Cleansers. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Feb;17(1):8-14. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12469. Epub 2017 Dec 12. PMID:
29231284.
3. Mukhopadhyay P. Cleansers and their role in various dermatological disorders. Indian J Dermatol. 2011 Jan;56(1):2-6.
4. AAD. Dry skin: tips for managing. American Academy of Dermatology Association. 202 Jun 18. [Internet]. Available on: https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/az/dry-skin-self-care
5. Augustin M and al. Diagnosis and treatment of xerosis cutis - a position paper. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2019 Nov;17 Suppl 7:3-33.
