How to select and apply a cream for dry facial skin ?

Why choose a specific face cream?¹

Particularities of dry facial skin¹

The face is characterised by the thinness of its epidermis, making the skin sensitive to skincare products and external aggressions. The face is particularly exposed to the sun's ultraviolet rays, which increase trans-epidermal water loss and reduce the levels of ceramides, essential physiological lipids in the skin barrier.

Sudden changes in temperature and humidity and frequent facial cleansing can also erode this protective lipid barrier, causing irritation. Moreover, facial skin has a high density of sebaceous glands, making it naturally oilier and more prone to imperfections.

It is also characterised by rapid epidermal differentiation (progressive transformation of keratinocytes into corneocytes, leading to the formation of the horny layer), which takes place over 10 days. Finally, it has many nerve endings close to the surface, making it more sensitive to irritation.

Skincare products specifically formulated for the face have the following general characteristics:

• Their formulations are light and non-comedogenic (lotions and creams) to prevent pores from clogging.
• They may contain ingredients that promote skin growth and differentiation, such as nicotinamide and dexpanthenol, as well as antioxidants such as vitamins C and E, and even sun filters to protect against UV damage.

Characteristics of the body's skin¹

In contrast, the skin of the body displays the following characteristics:

• A thicker epidermis offers better natural resistance but slows the penetration of active ingredients.
• A lower density of sebaceous glands leads to a tendency for the skin to dry out, especially on the legs.
• The epidermal differentiation is slower, lasting around 14 days.

Body skin nutrition products will generally be richer in lipids to compensate for the natural lack of sebum and contain more occlusive agents, such as petroleum jelly and oils. They may also contain exfoliants to stimulate cell renewal, but these irritate the face.

Understanding product labels: Key ingredients in creams for dry facial skin

Choosing a moisturising cream enriched with key ingredients that target the different aspects of skin hydration and protection is crucial to combat dry skin on the face effectively.

Hydrophilic ingredients or humectants^{1 2}

Humectants attract and retain water from deeper layers of the skin or the environment when humidity is high. Glycerine, for example, attracts water, accelerates the maturation of skin cells, and increases the production of aquaporin 3 (a cell channel that promotes hydration). Urea, another essential humectant, is renowned for its ability to hydrate effectively and facilitate the penetration of other beneficial ingredients. 
Hyaluronic acid, a natural moisturiser produced by cells in the dermis, can retain up to a thousand times its weight in water, reducing the appearance of fine lines and giving the epidermis a fuller, more elastic appearance. 

Lipophilic ingredients^{1 2}

There are two key lipophilic ingredients in moisturising products:

- Lipid-replenishing agents such as ceramides, natural moisturisers produced by the skin, or plant oils repair the skin's lipid matrix, reinforcing the skin barrier and increasing moisture retention.

- Occlusives, such as vaseline, paraffin or shea butter, form a hydrophobic protective film on the skin's surface, drastically reducing trans-epidermal water loss.

Certain lipophilic ingredients, such as shea butter, are both lipid-replenishing and occlusive. 

Emollients¹

Emollients like silicones and certain fatty acids improve skin texture by filling spaces between cells.

Complementary ingredients^{1 2}

Some facial moisturisers may also contain ingredients with complementary actions, such as:

- Agents that promote cell growth and differentiation, like dexpanthenol and nicotinamide.

- Antioxydants (vitamin C, E) to combat environmental oxidative stress.

- Sun filters (SPF) to protect the skin on the face against UV rays.

- Soothing and antipruritic substances such as glycerine or certain soothing plant extracts (aloe vera) to reduce the signs of sensitive skin.  

Choosing a cream for dry skin on the face

Types of moisturising products^{1 2}

Topical moisturising products fall into four traditional categories:

• Oil-in-water lotions: These light, water-based lotions are absorbed quickly, leaving little greasy residue.
• Water-in-oil lotions: These oilier lotions contain water dispersed in an oil base and are generally recommended for nourishing very dry skin.
• Hydrophilic creams : These creams moisturise the skin without overloading it with lipids. They are, therefore, suitable for normal to dry skin.
• Lipophilic creams (or ointments): Very rich in lipids, these creams are excellent for nourishing very dry skin but are generally too occlusive for the face.

Gels, sprays and serums generally contain few or no lipophilic compounds, so they are better suited to oily or combination skin.

What should I look for on facial care product labels?^{1 2}

When choosing a facial moisturiser, reading and understanding product labels to identify the key ingredients tailored to your specific needs is essential. Here are a few tips:

• Choice of formulation : To avoid clogged pores, opt for non-comedogenic formulations specially designed for the face, such as fluid creams or lotions.
• Key ingredients : Look for creams containing a combination of hydrophilic ingredients, such as glycerine and hyaluronic acid, and lipophilic ingredients, such as vaseline, paraffin, shea butter or ceramides.
• Soothing ingredients: Choose aloe vera or glycerine for sensitive, irritated or itchy skin.
• Avoid irritants : The cream should not contain potentially irritating or drying ingredients such as perfumes, alcohols, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), or retinoids. If your skin is particularly reactive or sensitive, opt for hypoallergenic formulas.
   

Facial care routine¹ ² ³ ⁴

To effectively combat dry skin on the face, adopting a regular, appropriate skincare routine is essential. Here are some practical tips for incorporating hydration into your daily skincare routine:

• Gentle cleansing: Start by cleansing your face using gentle, soap-free cleansing products which won't dry out your skin. This step prepares your skin for hydration by removing impurities without stripping it of essential natural oils.
• When to apply: To get the most out of your moisturiser, use it within a few minutes of washing your face. Take advantage of the residual moisture on your skin to help retain moisture.
• Frequency of use: Moisturise your face at least twice daily, in the morning and evening.
• Application tips: Apply the cream using gentle, circular movements. This encourages blood circulation and allows better absorption of the key ingredients while avoiding irritating the fragile skin of the face.
• Seasonal adaptation: Adapt your products to the season. In winter, opt for more nourishing creams to counter the cold and heat, which tend to dry out the skin. In summer, opt for lighter formulas to avoid overloading the skin.
• Regularity and perseverance: Regularity is the key to well-moisturised skin. Sporadic cream application is not enough to combat dryness. Establish a regular skincare routine for optimum hydration.

Prevention of dry face² ³ ⁴ ⁵ ⁶

To keep the skin on your face healthy and hydrated, follow these tips:

• Limit your showers and baths to 5 minutes, and use lukewarm water to avoid drying out your skin.
• Use gentle, soap-free cleansers with a pH close to that of the skin to cleanse it gently without damaging it.
• Scrubs and exfoliating products dry out the skin. Avoid them unless recommended by your dermatologist.
• Stay a reasonable distance from direct sources of heat, such as fireplaces, in winter and moderate the use of air conditioners in summer. Installing a humidifier in your home can help maintain air humidity and prevent skin dryness.
• Protect your skin from the sun and UV rays by staying in the shade, wearing a wide-brimmed hat and regularly applying sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or more.
• Maintain good hydration by drinking at least 2 litres of water daily and eating a diet rich in omega-3s and antioxidants to support skin health. Include probiotics and prebiotics to promote a healthy gut microbiome, which can improve skin barrier function.
• Reduce your consumption of foods and drinks that can irritate the skin, such as spices, citrus fruits and alcohol.

References   

1. Proksch E. Protection against dryness of facial skin: a rational approach. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2009;22(1):3-7.

2. Augustin M and al. Diagnosis and treatment of xerosis cutis - a position paper. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2019 Nov;17 Suppl 7:3-33.

3. AAD. Dry skin: tips for managing. American Academy of Dermatology Association. 202 Jun 18. [Internet]. Available on: https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/a-z/dry-skin-self-care

4. Kim S and al. A consistent skin care regimen leads to objective and subjective improvements in dry human skin: investigator-blinded randomized clinical trial. J Dermatolog Treat. 2022 Feb;33(1):300-305.

5. Palma L and al. Dietary water affects human skin hydration and biomechanics. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015 Aug 3;8:413-21.

6. Parke MA and al. Diet and Skin Barrier: The Role of Dietary Interventions on Skin Barrier Function. Dermatol Pract Concept. 2021 Jan 29;11(1):e2021132.