Dry skin creams: Guide and advice on use 

Discover how dry skin creams can transform your skin. Learn how to choose, use and maximise their effectiveness with our advice.

• Reducing the symptoms of dry skin: Applying moisturising creams can relieve the unpleasant symptoms of dry skin, such as itching, redness and flaking.
• Protection against external aggressors: Moisturisers help protect the skin against environmental factors such as cold, wind, and pollution. This protection is essential for people with very dry or extra-dry skin.
• Improved skin texture: Moisturisers improve the texture and appearance of the skin by hydrating and nourishing it. The skin becomes softer, smoother, and more supple. Moisturising the skin can also help prevent the signs of skin ageing, such as fine lines and wrinkles.

Essential ingredients for hydration¹ ²

To effectively treat dry and extra dry skin, choosing a moisturising cream containing key hydrating ingredients is essential:

• Humectants: They draw water into the skin from the deeper layers of the epidermis and, in humid conditions, from the external environment. They help maintain hydration by increasing the water content of the stratum corneum. Common examples of humectants include glycerine, urea, lactic acid and hyaluronic acid. Glycerine is particularly effective. It accelerates the maturation of corneocytes, reduces the desquamation associated with dry skin, and increases the expression of aquaporin 3 (a protein channel facilitating water transport through cells), thereby improving hydration. Urea is one of the natural moisturising factors (NMFs) formed physiologically by the breakdown of a protein called filaggrin in the skin. It is particularly effective at hydrating dehydrated skin and increasing the penetration of active ingredients.
• Occlusives: They reduce trans-epidermal water loss by creating a hydrophobic film on the skin. Common occlusive agents include shea butter, lanolin, mineral oils such as vaseline and paraffin and silicones such as dimethicone.  Vaseline is highly effective, reducing trans-epidermal water loss by over 98% when applied at a minimum concentration of 5%.²
• Lipid-replenishing: Ceramides, sterols, free fatty acids, vegetable oils and shea butter help to reconstitute the intercellular lipid matrix, thereby increasing the skin's barrier function. Combined with urea and glycerine, ceramides significantly improve skin hydration and reduce trans-epidermal water loss.¹
• Emollients: Emollients are moisturising ingredients that fill the cracks between desquamating corneocytes. They hydrate and improve the appearance of the skin by making it softer, more flexible and smoother. Ceramides, long-chain fatty acids, silicones and fatty alcohols, such as stearic and oleic acid, are emollients commonly used in moisturisers.

Advice on choosing a cream for dry skin

Selection by skin type¹

Topical moisturising products are generally classified into four groups: oil-in-water lotions, water-in-oil lotions, hydrophilic creams, and lipophilic creams (or ointments). Water-in-oil lotions and lipophilic creams are best suited to dry or extra-dry skin, as they prevent excessive water loss. Lipidic bases penetrate better when the lipid content of the stratum corneum is low. However, pure oils or fats are usually not recommended for primary dry skin care.
The choice of moisturiser should be adapted to your skin, whether it is slightly dehydrated or very dry. The drier the skin, the higher the lipid content should be. In the case of irritated skin or acute inflammatory skin disease (eczema, psoriasis, etc.) with severe itching, it may be preferable to use formulations with a higher water content, such as oil-in-water lotions.¹

Read and understand product labels¹ ²

When choosing a moisturiser, reading and understanding product labels is essential to identify the key ingredients that promote hydration and strengthen the skin barrier. Here are a few points to consider:

•  Hydrophilic ingredients: Look for effective, validated humectant ingredients such as glycerine, urea and hyaluronic acid.
• Lipophilic ingredients: Occlusive ingredients that form a protective film on the surface of the epidermis, such as shea butter, petroleum jelly, and paraffin, are particularly effective for treating very dry and extra-dry skin. Ingredients like ceramides, shea butter, and natural oils reinforce the skin's barrier function by replenishing essential lipids. 
• Soothing, anti-itch substances: Creams containing glycerine and soothing plant extracts like aloe vera can help reduce itching and calm irritation.

Instructions for use

When and how often should moisturisers be applied?¹ ³ ⁴

Here are a few tips to optimise the hydration of your dry skin:

• Apply your cream within a few minutes of drying off after a shower or bath. Doing so traps existing moisture, maximising the moisturiser's effectiveness.
• Use an ointment or cream rather than a lotion⁴: Ointments and creams are generally more effective and less irritating than lotions for dry skin. Look for products containing moisturising ingredients such as glycerine, hyaluronic acid and urea.
• Frequency of application: Apply your moisturiser once or twice a day. One application in the morning and another in the evening can help to keep very dry skin moisturised at all times.

Application techniques to maximise efficiency¹ ³ ⁴

Here are a few techniques to maximise the benefits of your moisturiser:

• Use gentle, circular movements: this helps stimulate blood circulation and improves the absorption of moisturising ingredients into the skin. Avoid rubbing too vigorously, as this can irritate dry skin.
• Don't forget the often-neglected areas: Elbows, legs, and feet are particularly prone to skin dryness. Apply a generous layer of moisturiser to these areas (avoid walking immediately after applying it to your feet, as there is a greater risk of slipping!)
• Use creams with key ingredients⁴ such as glycerine, vaseline, urea, hyaluronic acid, ceramides or shea butter.
• Avoid moisturisers containing perfumes, alcohols, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or retinoids and opt for hypoallergenic products.
• For children, place small dots of cream on the main areas of the face (cheeks, forehead, nose, chin), then gently spread the product in circular movements to ensure even coverage. This method ensures that the right amount of cream is used and evenly distributed over the entire face, optimising the treatment's effectiveness.

References   

1. Augustin M and al. Diagnosis and treatment of xerosis cutis - a position paper. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2019 Nov;17 Suppl 7:3-33.
2. Baalham P and al. Xerosis of the feet: a comparative study on the effectiveness of two moisturizers. Br J Community Nurs. 2011 Dec;16(12):591-2,594-7.
3. UFSP. Crevasses au pied : définitions et traitements. Union Française pour la Santé des Pieds. 2024 [Internet]. Disponible sur : https://www.sante-du-pied.org/vos-pieds/conseil/crevasses-comment-la-soigner/
4. AAD. Dermatologists’ top tips for relieving dry skin. American Academy of Dermatology Association. 2024 [Internet]. Disponible sur: https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/dry/dermatologists-tips-relieve-dry-skin
5. Brusi C, Patel R. How to Heal and Prevent Dry Hands. Healthline. Apr 2023 [Internet]. Disponible sur : https://www.healthline.com/health/dry-hands